travel russia moscow tolstoy train
One of the highlights of our trip was taking the over-night train from Helsinki, Finland, to Moscow, Russia.
The train was the "Tolstoy" and had much of the flavor of Agatha Christie's Orient Express.
Getting a Russian Visa was expensive and the paperwork and questions were pervasive... and having a guide/sponsor was mandatory.
We traveled with a group of 25 and had two-person private cabins on two "chartered" coaches that came with its own "porter".
We had dinner on our own in the dining car."
LINK TO A RUSSIAN RAIL WEB PAGE
TRAVEL:
August 2009 -
unless noted otherwise all images copyright d. holmes chamberlin jr architect llc
Our cabin was clean and simple... just right for an introduction to Moscow, Russia, 2009.
From my favorite spot in the hall where I could get an unobstructed view of the countryside and be near one of the three hall windows that opened partially for fresh air.
Whether by design or noise convenience, the train travelled most of its daylight hours in a "trench" with berms on each side, often covered with birch and other trees.
Views of the countryside, when they were available, were usually of green fields and a very few towns and villages. There was very little insight into country life.
For a nominal fee, the Porter would provide hot tea in a silver and glass cup from the 'samovar' at the end of the hall, Tolstoy train, Russia, 2009.
Dinner was on our own, available in the Dining car 5 coaches away. I think I was the only one who braved a real entree... pork medallions in cherry sauce... surprisingly good.
Because of lack of space, we shared a table with a lone young Russian "business man" on his way back from Helsinki.
We learned from some of the people we talked to later that travel outside Russia is still very restricted, usually only for "party" members.
We also learned that travelers were almost never allowed to take family members along for fear that they might never come back.
From my second favorite spot at the cabin window (did not open), we began to see the massive blocks of infamous Russian state apartments on the outskirts of Moscow.
Our guides told us that the government had privitized this state housing and had made it possible for "long-term" residence to take over ownership.
We were told that, by US standards, these apartments are very small, and that they were usually occupied by many people.
As we approached Moscow, there were strip malls to see and more paperwork to fill out.
copyright d. holmes chamberlin jr architect llc
page last revised april 2015